Aliano and the Val d’Agri are about 45 minutes apart. Combine them over two days.
1 Aliano and Carlo Levi
Visit the house where Levi lived in exile, the museum of his paintings and the cemetery where he is buried, looking out over the calanchi. Many places in the village match scenes in the book.
Practical: Museum and house ticketed together; check hours.
2 The calanchi
Rain has carved the clay hills into sharp ridges and gullies. The best views are from the edge of Aliano and the roads towards Alianello, especially at sunset.
Practical: Free. Do not walk on the fragile slopes.
3 Sant’Arcangelo and Orsoleo
Sant’Arcangelo is a hill town above the Agri. Nearby, the convent of Santa Maria di Orsoleo has frescoes and a museum.
Practical: Convent visits at set times; check ahead.
4 Grumentum
The ruins of a Roman town below Grumento Nova, with a theatre, forum, temples, baths and mosaic floors. The national archaeological museum of the Alta Val d’Agri is nearby.
Practical: Ticketed; allow two hours.
5 Lago del Pertusillo
A large reservoir in the Agri valley, set against the mountains. Its shores are good for a walk or a picnic.
Practical: Free. Swimming is not encouraged.
6 Viggiano
A hill town with the sanctuary of the Black Madonna on the Sacro Monte, the goal of pilgrimages in summer. Viggiano also has a long tradition of travelling harpists.
Practical: Pilgrimages in May and September; check the calendar.
